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Pomace Me This (con't from Home page)
Grappa is the product of the distillation of fermented grape pomace (mainly the seeds and skins of grapes), the material that remains after wine is made. Of the 120 plus grappa distilleries in Italy, a small number of industrial distillers are responsible for 80% of the country?s total output, while more than 80 artisan producers account for the remaining 20%. Industrial producers utilize continuous distillation which allows the pomace to be added in the top of the tank and removed from the bottom without suspending the process. Conversely, artisan producers use the much slower and more expensive discontinuous distillation process which involves small copper stills from which the used pomace must be removed before more can be added. It is common for top artisanal-producers such as Poli, Nardini, Fratelli Brunello, Nonino and Tosolini to use fresh pomace only. This results in a superior spirit that exhibits the essence and character of the particular grape.
?Vendi caro ma pesa giusto.? The words of Giovanni Poli can be loosely translated as ?Sell and make money, but make sure you are giving value.? Artisanal grappa producers have taken the meaning beyond just quality. They have introduced diversity, which has allowed this traditional spirit to be accepted by not so traditional foodies.
A great example is the grappa and cheese tasting I experienced at Fratelli Brunello. Located in the small town of Montegalda, midway between Verona and Venice, the relaxed and easy-going Brothers Brunello are not just passionate about grappa, but about food and its affinity to the spirit. Their property is actually a working farm (agriturismo) and all ingredients used in the dishes served in their dining room are produced locally. At lunch we enjoyed a stunningly fresh dish in which the pasta was made from the fresh eggs of chickens that were in turn used to make the broth in which the pasta noodles were served. Prior to lunch, though, we experienced a first for me...this grappa and cheese tasting. Three locally produced organic cheeses from La Capreria were each paired with a Fratelli Brunello grappa.
The delicate and floral Grappa Bianca from the pomace of Tocai, Prosecco and Garganega was first paired with a semi-hard, creamy goat and sheep?s milk cheese. The soft flavours of each, along with the mild nuttiness of the grappa resulted in a subtle, yet flavourful sensation. Next came their Amarone Grappa with its powerful aromas of dried figs, prunes and kirsch. The intense notes were a great match with the equally intensely flavoured and stinky Grotte di Mantegalda, composed of goat, sheep and cow?s milk. Finally, the Moscato Grappa with its fragrances of orange peel and roses appeared initially overwhelmed by the roquefort-like Verde di Montegalda, but the rich and creamy texture of the savoury cheese resulted in a joyous flavour explosion with the perceived sweetness of the moscato.
The marriage of grappa with food was taken to another level during a dinner with Antonio Guarda Nardini at the Nardini-owned Ristorante al Ponte in Bassano del Grappa, Italy?s heart and soul of grappa production. For over 200 years the Nardini family has produced grappa in the town of Bassano. The restaurant?s chef created a superb meal using a Nardini distillate in each dish. Everything from the Asparagi alla Bassanese (asparagus Bassano-style), the Filetto d?Agnello (lamb), the Ananas con Zabaione (pineapple with zabaglione, an Italian warm custard made with Marsala), to the chocolate truffles incorporated Nardini?s grappas. The stylish Antonio strongly believes that to ensure the younger generation?s acceptance of grappa, the spirit must be marketed not as ?your grandfather?s drink?, but as a hip and modern eau-de-vie suitable for the food-and-wine jet-set.
Also linked with the history of Bassano is the Poli family. Giovanni Poli?s first telephone number was #2 (the local telephone company?s number being #1). Master distiller Jacopo Poli has raised the image of grappa to new heights since taking over the family business from his grandfather Giovanni and father Toni. Passionate and charismatic, Jacopo has a twinkle in his eye and sincerity in his voice whenever he speaks of grappa and the history of the family distillery. Bottled in hand blown glass, the appearance of the package is as beautiful as the Poli distillates. The Poli PO Moscato grappa is aromatic with orange and acacia blossoms and delicately soft on the palate. The Vespaiolo is one of the best spirits that I have ever tasted. Floral perfumes and hints of apple, pear and peach on the nose; the palate is clean and fresh with an almost tropical character and the finish is elegant, long and persistent. It is not unusual and, in fact, becoming more common in fine restaurants and resorts for the massively cool in-crowd to enthusiastically indulge in Poli?s grappas and pay twice the price of a top cognac or whisky.
Lisa Tosolini is indicative of the youthful trend in the grappa culture. Not much older than 30, Lisa is all you would expect a stylish, hip, sophisticated, young woman who has grown up in the wealthy Friuli region. Add to this her love and enthusiasm for the beautiful spirits produced by the distillery founded by her grandfather, Bepi Tosolini. Their ramandola grappa is oh so pretty and delicate showing peach, apricot and stone fruit character and a pleasingly long and luscious finish. Lisa and her brothers Bruno and Giuseppe are the future. They are the in-crowd, the trend setters who will draw in even those with a casual interest in food and wine. And most importantly, they are obsessed with quality.
While Italy?s artisanal grappa producers are determined to continue the tradition of their ancestors, they are also driven to impart their passion to the next generation of consumers. They want to maintain the tradition of quality, but not the traditional consumers? perception. The new image of grappa is simply a reflection of Antonio, Jacopo, Lisa, and the Brunello brothers. Swish, stylish and ready to take on the world.
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