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VENI, VEDI, VENETO
Fabiano
by Gurvinder Bhatia
(Wine Tidings, November 2001)
From the shores of Lake Garda, to the rolling hills surrounding Verona, to the alpine foothills of the Valdobbiadene flow some of the world?s best wine values. Valpolicella, Soave and Amarone are recognized worldwide, but there seems to be a renewed interest in these and other traditional wines from the Veneto, Italy?s largest producer of DOC wines. Perhaps the skyrocketing wine prices of California and Bordeaux, and the world?s lagging stock markets have forced wine consumers to look elsewhere. And where better than the Veneto?
Historically known for producing an abundance of middle-of-the -road table wine, the last ten years have seen many Veneto producers modernize their vineyard techniques, winemaking equipment, and the aesthetic presentation of the finished product. Renewed interest generated through modern marketing and emerging markets is supported by improved quality in the bottle.
As is the struggle for most Old World producers, the Veneto wineries are striving to appeal to New World markets, while still maintaining the traditional varietals and styles of the region. A greater number of international varietals are being produced and exported, but every producer I spoke with expressed his love for Corvina (the main varietal in Valpolicella, Bardolino, Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella) and the uncompromised importance of continuing to work with and develop this varietal. Veneto producers appear determined to continue improving the quality of wine through reduced yields, developing new clones, improving techniques, equipment and the presentation of the package, while maintaining regional varietals and wine styles. Capturing the consumers? attention for the wines? intrinsic quality rather than recognition of a common varietal on the label is the challenge facing today?s Veneto producers.
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As his rally car sat perched at the edge of the cliff, inches from death, Nicola Fabiano decided to accept a new challenge - to enter the family wine business full-time. Nicola Fabiano brings the same determination and spirit to the wine business as he did when as a young man he ran away from home to become a rally car race driver. Four generations have evolved the family business from a single wine store in Venice opened by Nicola?s grandfather, Francesco, in 1912, into one of the Veneto?s largest wineries, exporting to five continents and producing over 9 million bottles annually. Nicola spearheaded the growth with a vision to transform a regional family business into a worldwide commercial activity.
Since taking the helm, Nicola has become a leader for progress within the Italian wine industry, and an ambassador for the industry internationally. He is a founding member of the world?s largest wine show, VinItaly, held in Verona, only miles from his home. He has participated annually for each of its 36 years. While president of the Italian Wine & Food Institute of New York, Nicola organized tastings and seminars in several US cities and California wineries to spread the word on the quality and uniqueness of Italian wine, and to exchange information with his California counterparts. He is one of Italy?s strongest advocates of progress with respect to the quality of Italian wine, yet he is passionate about maintaining tradition.
Working with growers and staff, Nicola pushes for quality. Controlling yields even for inexpensive Valpolicella and Soave, purchasing a new ultra-modern bottling line, and continually improving his wines? packaging are some of the methods used to reinforce the philosophy that drives the winery - ?Activity and Reactivity?. Activity: proposing new wines that emphasize the quality of the region and the tremendous price-quality ratio. Reactivity: perceiving and anticipating the palate of international markets. Nicola?s dynamic rally car racer spirit has propelled Fabiano wines into markets ahead of its competitors. Nicola has also taken the lead in the quest to make quality, well-priced wines accessible to the as yet untapped Asian market. China and India with their two billion plus wine novices are Fabiano?s newest challenge.
Approaching the age of 70, Nicola believes the family business will double within the next five years. He has no plans to retire, but instead hopes to follow in his father Sergio?s footsteps and work until the day of his ?last goodbye?. Nicola?s son, Alessandro, will be entrusted with the challenge of ensuring Fabiano wines evolve with the times, but continue to express the tradition of his heritage. |
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