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A Different World An Ocean Away (con't from Home page)
While over-extracted, blousy wines of little substance appear to have hypnotized Robert Parker, consumers deserve better. So, I?m packing my bags and going in search of the under-valued, unique, often unheard-of wines of quality in attempt to resurrect my faith in the existence of wines for the wine lover (not wine investor). And, I want the new generation of wine drinkers to realize that for a wine to be good, it does not have to be over-extracted, over-alcoholic, over-wooded, over-sweetened and?oh yeah, all taste the same.
I decide to turn my sights to the Old World. In amongst the Bordeaux, Burgundy, Super-Tuscans, Barolos and single vineyard Cote-Rotie, must still exist areas steeped in history whose wines are not yet at the forefront. Surely it is still possible to find some great wine values
Valdepe?as
My first stop is Spain. I fly into Madrid and travel southeast through the country?s central plateau to Valdepe?as. Almost totally surrounded by mountain ranges, the ?Valley of Stones? is arguably Spain?s oldest wine region. The Romans and the Iberians before them appear to have made wine in the area since the beginning of time. Today, producers are investing in modern equipment and placing more emphasis on quality and individuality.
The soil is limestone-based with a chalk bedrock that provides excellent water retention during the hot, semi-arid summers. And boy, is it hot here! The temperature often reaches and exceeds 40˚C. The main grapes are the red Cencibel (as Tempranillo is known locally) and the white Air?n. Although the majority of wine produced is red, Air?n accounts for the majority of the plantings. The reason is that after the phylloxera disaster of 1911, many growers decided on quantity rather than quality and Air?n?s yields are considerably higher than those of Cencibel. Much of Valdepe?as? resurgence has taken place in the 1990s. Producers such as Bodegas Navarro Lopez, Felix Solis, Casa de la Vina, Los Llanos, Luis Megia, among others, placed an emphasis on strict quality, cleanliness, bottling mono-varietals, and investment in modern equipment and technology. The result is wines with a tremendous quality-price ratio.
First, I taste two wines from Bodegas Visan. Their Castillo Mudela ($9.99) is somewhat light and lacking in body and flavour. Better is the Vina Mudela ($7.99). The wine has a bright freshness and starts nicely as it first enters the mouth, but then disappears on the finish. This character is evident in many of the Valdepe?as red wines that still contain a significant amount of white grapes. I suspect this to be the case with these two. VIDEVA?s offerings are more indicative of the area?s current quality. The 2000 Tradicionale Tinto ($12.99) from 100% Tempranillo is fresh and fruity with a nice mouth-feel and pleasant after-taste. VIDEVA?s 1996 Riserva ($18.99) has more body and structure and a bit of a weird funky thing happening. The better buy is the less expensive Tinto. The area?s star wineries are Felix Solis, Los Llanos, Luis Megia and Navarro Lopez. Not coincidentally, these are also the producers that led Valdepe?as? modernization. Perhaps the best buy is the 1999 Navarro Lopez ?Pergolas? Old Vines Tempranillo Crianza ($11.99). Aged six months in French and American oak, this wine has structure, flavour and length far beyond its modest price tag. Also of exceptional quality is their 1996 ?Pergolas? Tempranillo Riserva ($19.99). It is more sophisticated than the Crianza with a warmth, elegance and subtlety resulting in a disproportionate quality-to-price ratio in favour of quality.
It is apparent that the best wines from Valdepe?as are the Crianzas, Reservas and Gran Reservas made from 100% Tempranillo. Continued advances will solidify their standing as Spain?s best wine values and international markets will continue to discover their tremendous wines which show all the warmth of the Valdepe?as sun.
Languedoc-Roussillon (Languedoc)
I throw a few bottles of the Pergolas Crianza into my backpack and hop a train to the South of France. The sunny, fertile plains of the Languedoc are responsible for over 40% of France?s total wine production. And quantity is what the Languedoc has historically been known for. If Languedoc were its own country, it would be the fourth largest wine producer in the world. Until recently, the area?s wines were mostly consumed locally and it was just as well because the quality certainly was not worth exporting. The past 20 years, though, has brought modern technology and know-how to the area resulting in the transformation of cheap jug-wines into great values.
Most of the Languedoc is dry, sunny and hot, but winds from the surrounding mountains bring cooling temperatures during the growing season. There are a number of Appellation d?Origine Contr?l?e (AOC) in the region, but there is also a tremendous amount of vins de pays (country wine) produced. The area?s traditional red grapes are Carignan, Grenache and Cinsault, but as the drive for quality has grown, so have the plantings of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. For whites, Marsanne, Viognier and Chardonnay are resulting in wines of freshness and character. There are so many great values in the Languedoc that it is difficult to narrow it down to only a few.
A great example of successful foreign investment in the Languedoc is that of Fox Wood. Founded by the Goundrey?s of Australia, Fox Wood is producing wines of outstanding value. The 2001 Syrah ($15.95) is plumy and full with a nice earthiness. The 2001 Cabernet-Syrah ?March Hare? ($16.95) has hints of cassis and chocolate with soft round tannins and a lip-smacking finish. They also produce an excellent value 2001 Viognier ($14.95) and a tremendous 2001 Marsanne ($14.95) whose fresh peachiness, pleasant mouth-feel and clean, round finish make me look twice at the price to make sure it is actually that inexpensive. From Corbi?res in the southwest comes the 1999 Chateau Etang des Colombes Bicentenaire ($19.99). Dominated by Grenache and complimented with Syrah and Mourvedre, the wine exhibits great character with wonderful spiciness and density. The 2000 Ermitage du Pic Saint-Loup ($22.99) is a dark wine of cumin and garam masala spice aromas, full cherry flavours and a soft-texture that glides over the palate. Outstanding is the lush and rich 2000 Chateau de Flaugergues ?Sommeliere? ($21.99) with its dark plum and blackberry flavours finishing seductively with dark chocolate and coffee. And for fun is the 2000 Chateau de Jau Jaja de Jau Syrah-Grenache ($14.99). Despite the allure of saying its name over and over, the wine is a well-made mouthful of tasty juice that may not provoke serious thought, but will accompany your barbequed burgers quite nicely. The list can go on and on. As Jean-Marc Avram of the F?d?ration des Cavistes Independents states, ?There are probably more good wines waiting to be discovered in Languedoc-Roussillon than anywhere else?.
Bandol
From Languedoc, I cruise along the Mediterranean coast to France?s oldest wine producing area, Provence. Home to the Cannes Film Festival, the topless C?tes d?Azur sun-bathing chic, and million dollar yachts, Provence boasts one of France?s most unique wine regions. Located between Marseille and Toulon, Bandol produces good quality whites and ros?, but the dark, muscular, elegant, rich, intense, peppery red wines are indisputably the main attraction.
The town of Bandol is an old fishing village that is now a popular resort. The best vineyards lie inland behind the town on the hillsides of the surrounding villages. The full-bodied reds of Bandol must be composed of at least 50% Mourvedre and aged in wood for at least 18 months prior to bottling. The late-ripening, fiercely tannic Mourvedre flourishes in Bandol?s hot, arid climate.
Top producers are those that led Bandol through its lean years. The Peyraud family of Domaine Tempier helped to gain AOC status for the region. Tempier still produces some of the area?s top wines, but their prices are now reflective of their stature. Their Bandol Rouge and Cuvee Speciale are wines of outstanding depth, dimension and flavour. The Cuvee in particular is a soulful, palate-inspiring myriad of pepper, spice, black cherry, truffles, and wild flowers. The price ($90.00) may not qualify the wine as a value, but its uniqueness makes it worth mentioning. The Bunans of Domaine Bunan are also huge proponents of the area and their wines are some of Bandol?s most exported. Their 1999 Moulin des Costes Rouge ($27.99) is a powerful, full-bodied wine of finesse. Leather, cocoa, pepper and mushroom are balanced nicely with the prominent, yet round tannins. Bunan?s richly intense, dark fruit bearing 1999 Mas de la Rouviere ($27.99) is also a standout. Other producers to look for are Chateau des Baumelles and Domaines Castell-Reynoard. Complex and flavourful beyond their price, the magnificent red wines of Bandol are as breathtaking as their Provencal setting.
Valtellina
Being not far from Italy, my sudden craving for ossobucco and saffron risotto draws me to the Valtellina, a stunning 40km stretch along the Swiss-Italian border in the north-central region of Lombardy. Everything in these terraced, mountainous vineyards must be accomplished by hand as the steep angle of the slopes makes mechanization impossible. The variation between day and night temperatures and the breeze from Lake Como results in wines of penetrating flavours and great character. Nebbiolo, known locally as Chiavennasca, is the king of grapes as it is in neighbouring Piedmont.
Nebbiolo wines from Valtellina differ from their Piemontese cousins in that they deceptively appear leaner, but are equal when it comes to their penetrating flavours. In general, they have the stamina to age for upwards of a decade. Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Sforzato are names rarely heard in international markets because the majority of Valtellina?s wines are sold in Switzerland. But these wines, which range from $20-45, rival Barolos and Barbarescos selling for twice the price.
Triacca, Rainoldi, Fay and Nino Negri are well known to the Swiss, and the North American market should also take note. These are extremely classy wines. The greatest values, though, are those of Domenico Triacca. Domenico is a perfectionist and it is reflected in the maintenance of his vineyards, his ultra-modern equipment and above all, his wines. The 1998 Sassella Valtellina Superiore ($19.99) is dry and velvety and warms the palate with a pleasing mineral quality and nuttiness. Named because the vineyards are ?as hot as hell? to work in during the summer, Inferno may be the most powerful of the four Valtellina Superiore subdistricts. Triacca?s exquisitely made 1998 Inferno ($21.99) is a lean blockbuster. With great construction, the wine glides over the palate as the intense and austere flavours penetrate your senses. Perhaps Valtellina?s best known wine is Sforzato. Made using the appassimento (drying grapes) method, these 100% Nebbiolo wines are reminiscent of Amarone from the Veneto, but more savoury and spicy. A bargain, even at $42.00, the age worthy 1999 Triacca Sforzato has remarkable structure, rich, luscious fruit and firm tannins on the seductively long finish. As a testament to the durability of these wines, I taste Triacca?s 1990 Inferno and 1995 Grumello ($19.99). Who says you can?t find a $20 wine that will age well for ten years.
Marche
I understand they have great seafood along the Adriatic coast so I add to my collection with a few bottles of Sforzato and Inferno and head southeast to the region of Marche. The white Verdicchio with its green amphora-shaped bottle put Marche on the wine map decades ago. But, since then the region has largely been ignored. It is impossible to ignore Marche any longer as its wines are just too good and their prices amazingly low. Neglected by tourists, Marche is sparsely populated, but one of Italy?s most serene and beautiful areas. Abundant pastures for raising cattle, sheep and pigs give Marche a rural, relaxed feel.
About ten years ago, several Marche producers decided to make better wine. The result has been Italy?s best wine values. The quality of Verdicchio has improved dramatically, but the red wines based predominately on Montepulciano and Sangiovese are making the biggest impact. The best examples of Rosso C?nero (at least 85% Montepulciano) are deep ruby red in colour with full, round flavours of dark cherries and leather, and big soft tannins that will allow gentle aging for several years. Garofoli, Moroder, Le Terrazze, Spinsanti, and Strologo are all names that are probably completely unknown in Canada, but to experience their wines of vigour, depth and value, go to your local wine store in droves and implore them to get some of these on the shelf.
Just as impressive can be Rosso Piceno (35-70% Montepulciano). I first taste the 2000 Tenuta De Angelis Rosso Piceno ($13.99). The smokiness gives the false impression of some oak treatment, but this wine is all about freshness and flavour. Better still is their 1998 Rosso Piceno Superiore ($19.99) which shows intense colour and aromas of sour cherries with a touch of balsamic and tobacco. The flavours explode on the palate with a soft richness finishing long with sweet spice and chocolate. I?ll take this over Merlot any day. Another ridiculously good value is Saladini Pilastri?s 2000 Rosso Piceno Superiore ?Vigna Monteprandone? ($19-22) whose warm and complex flavours of cherry and spice show the elegance of a wine far beyond its price. There is also a growing number of ?Super-Marche? wines which express the creativity and skill of the region?s winemakers. One of the best is the 2000 De Angelis Anghelos ($35.00). This blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon is extremely generous on the palate showing well-knitted mouthfilling flavours of cherries, vanilla, mocha and a pleasing smokiness. A nice alternative to the pricey Tuscan wines from the opposite coast around Bolgheri.
Marche wines will continue to improve. This is a mind-boggling thought as they are already Italy?s best values and some of the best quality.
Carmignano
I hear that the Province of Prato is conducting a special tasting, so I head west across the country to Tuscany and to the tiny wine producing jewel of Carmignano, which lies between Florence and Pisa. Only eight producers exist in the area and all are represented at the tasting which is moderated by revered Italian wine journalist Luigi Veronelli, along with Marco Sabellico of Gambero Rosso. Carmignano has a long and admired history. Early documented reports have wine being produced as early as AD 804. It was the Medici family themselves who built the villas at many of the current wineries. The wines of Carmignano were the first in Italy to require the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon. This codified the longstanding tradition of using this varietal which was brought to the area in the 1500s when Caterina de Medici became the Queen of France. The wines must be at least 50% Sangiovese and winemakers use a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and/or Canaiolo to finish the blend.
The tasting is a splendid comparative overview of the area?s quality. The nose on Artimino?s 1999 Carmignano is very inviting with aromas of cherries and coffee. It possesses ample fruit and big, soft tannins. Also excellent is the 1999 Fattoria Ambra Carmignano which is very approachable and shows great depth of fruit and structure. Next is the 1999 offering from Pratesi which is almost too soft and easy. The buzz in the room is that it is very un-Italian, but the Americans would probably like it. The 1999 Carmignano from il Poggiolo is young and fresh with wonderful structure. It is quite tannic, but the abundance of fruit should allow it to age well. Finally, we come to the wine that everyone is raving about. Tenuta di Capezzana is the area?s largest and best producer. Their 1999 Carmignano ($39.99) is elegant with complex cherry and black currant aromas, tons of rich, teeth-staining fruit and a lingering finish that seems to last forever. The 2001 Barco Reale ($23.99), which is meant to be drunk young while waiting for the Carmignano to age, is a stunningly good value exhibiting exuberant ruby red colour and ripe fruity aromas. Medium bodied with lush black cherries flavours, this soft, stylish wine finishes with lingering sweet fruit. Capezzana also produce a ?Super-Tuscan? called Ghiaie della Furba which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The multi-layered 1999 Ghiaie ($65.00) has seriously concentrated, but not over-extracted, blackberries, cherries and tobacco and velvety tannins. The wines of Carmignano are not cheap, but dollar for dollar, they are the best wines in Tuscany.
Exhausted, I leave for home, reassured that real winemaking still exists. The beauty of wine is its diversity and all the areas I visited are unique with winemakers who celebrate diversity, abandon conformity and produce some of the best quality wines in the world. Their incredible quality-to-price ratios are a welcome bonus. Some of these wines are not yet available in Canada, but at the insistence of true wine lovers, I hope that these original palate and pocket pleasing wines will begin to replace the generic offerings currently crowding the shelves at our local wine stores.
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