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Searching for George

Uncovering the Spendours of Lake Como
by Gurvinder Bhatia
as appears in Tidings, Dec/Jan 2006/2007 issue
          I?ve never been one to be star-struck, but on occasion there are famous individuals from the entertainment community that impress me beyond their showbiz talents. A short time before leaving for my annual pilgrimage to VinItaly in Verona, my girlfriend and I were watching the Academy Awards. One of the first Oscars of the night (best supporting actor) was presented to George Clooney for his politically controversial Syriana. We thought, not only is this guy a throwback to Old Hollywood, his social activism seems based on a sincere desire to make a difference rather than being contrived for self-promotion. Here?s a guy that would probably be pretty interesting to sit down and have a beer or glass of wine with - like that would ever happen!
          On the long flight over, I was flipping through a travel magazine and was awestruck by the pictures in an article on Lake Como, the beautifully scenic getaway north of Milan. Each year after VinItaly we travel to a different area of Italy to experience the food, wine and culture of this regionally diverse country. The plan, this year, was to spend at least a few days in Como. I perused the article for hints of must-go spots, but instead came across the mayor of Como expressing the town?s pleasure in hosting the shooting of several scenes of the "new rat pack"- studded film, Ocean?s Twelve, starring...George Clooney. The article made mention of Clooney?s home on the Lake and his love of food and wine. Hmmm...I wonder where George likes to eat and drink in Como? (click here to continue article...)

Maremma Maremma

Where the Sea Touches the Vineyard
by Gurvinder Bhatia
as appear in Tidings, October 2006 issue
          Standing amidst the sun-drenched vineyards of the beautiful coastal Maremma (derived from "mare", the Italian word for the sea) region of southwest Tuscany, you have to wonder how Dante could have written so negatively about the area. He professed that even the wildest beasts would find La Maremma uninviting. It is only recently, though, that this largely uninhabitable mosquito- and malaria-infested swamp was transformed -through extensive dredging and soil reclamation - into the lushly forested, villa dotted destination for the Roman and Florentine cognoscenti.
          Mention Tuscany to a wine lover and Chianti, Brunello and Vino Nobile immediately come to mind. But the fruit-forward, elegant, arguably modern-styled wines of the Maremma have created an entirely new market for Italian wines. (click here to continue article...)

Eating Kansas City

by Gurvinder Bhatia
as appears in Tidings, May/June 2006 issue
     How do you get the feel for the culinary and cultural identity of a city in sixty-four hours? Try eating at over twenty restaurants, hanging out at a few live-music joints, cocktailing at several watering holes and throwing in a couple of museums along the way. Having a local guide helps too.

037_37And so it was for my recent whirlwind culinary exploration of Kansas City. To most people, the city that straddles the state line between Missouri and Kansas is associated with barbecue and the blues. My mission was to determine whether the local diet consisted of more than just brisket, ribs and burnt ends. Of course, I also wanted to find the best brisket, ribs and burnt ends. To this end, I enlisted an old friend from my law-school days in St. Louis, Missouri, to act as my tour guide. Now a government-relations lawyer at one of the country?s power firms, Adam P. Sachs, born and raised in Kansas City, volunteered not only to serve as my guide and chauffeur but also as the over-zealous photographer for this piece. (Click here to continue article...)

Pomace Me This - Grappa was Never Like This

by Gurvinder Bhatia
As appears in Tidings, Dec 2005 issue
                 Grappa and cheese tastings?  Grappa based cocktails at the hippest nightclubs in Milan, Rome, London and New York?  The under forty tr?s chic embracing this Italian staple instead of relegating it to be consumed by old Italian men playing scopa?

                The image of grappa as rocket fuel has changed considerably since the days of illegal distillers scattered throughout Mount Bassano in northeast Italy?s Veneto region.  The national spirit is being consumed internationally by a much broader base in large part due to artisan producers whose refined spirits are appealing to quality conscious imbibers. (Click here to continue article...)

Grappa - Profile Antonio Guarda Nardini

by Gurvinder Bhatia
As appears in Wine Access Nov 2005 - The Wine, Food and Grappa of Italy Supplement
          Grappa has come a long way from the fiery moonshine produced by the plethora of illicit distillers that once resided on Mount Bassano in northeast Italy?s Veneto region.  A traditional Italian spirit that is growing in popularity internationally, grappa is produced by the distillation of fermented grape pomace, the stuff (mainly pressed seeds and skins of grapes) left over after wine is made.  Grappa is usually a clear spirit between 80 and 90 proof.  Grappa distilleries in Italy can be categorized into 34 industrial distillers, responsible for 80% of the country?s total output and 89 artisan producers, who account for the balance, amongst whom
Nardini, Poli, Nonino and Tosolini are regarded as the top of their craft. Industrial and artisan producers are distinguished by their methods. The artisan or traditional method of production utilizes discontinuous distillation which involves the use of small copper cauldrons from which the used pomace must be removed before additional pomace can be added.  This process is slower and more expensive than the continuous distillation utilized by the industrial producers which allows the pomace to be added in the top of the tank and removed from the bottom without interrupting the distillation process.  While visiting with Antonio Guarda Nardini earlier this year I discovered that his distillery utilizes both methods; however his finest grappas result from the artisan method. (Click here to continue article...)

Blah-Blah-Blah (What do Wine Labels Really Say??)
by Gurvinder Bhatia
As appears in Tidings, Feb/March 2005 issue
     During the Settimana di Vini or Wine Week in Siena, about 16 of us were having dinner in a small trattoria, only a bocce toss from the city?s beautiful main square, Piazza del Campo, site of the famous Paleo horse races. We were enjoying the seemingly endless flow of food from the Tuscan kitchen, when a loud upstate New York accent brought the conversation to a sudden halt. "What is this ROE-so DEE Mon-tal-KEE-no?" queried a vice president of the world?s largest wine company as he held up a bottle of the Rosso di Montalcino (ROSS-so dee Mon-tal-CHEE-no) we were having with our meal. At first, no one was quite sure of what he was asking. Then we realized that he really did not know what Rosso di Montalcino was.
     As a vice president of a huge international wine group, we were hugely surprised, but we explained that the wine was made using the same grapes as Brunello di Montalcino (Sangiovese Grosso) and was from the area around the Tuscan town of Montalcino. His next question sparked quite the debate - "Why don?t they just put the grape type on the bottle, so that we know what it is we?re drinking?" (Click here to continue article...)
The Greatest Feeling (What Makes a Winemaker?)
by Gurvinder Bhatia
As appears in Tidings, October 2004 issue
          Okanagan winemaker Sandra Oldfield sums it up fairly concisely. "The moments when I?m standing on a ladder in our barrel cellar evaluating a glass of wine with the sun beaming down (and a choir of angels singing in the background) are pretty rare." For those who think that winemaking is glamorous, Oldfield invites them to "come on down, you?re the next contestant on the Shovel out the Tank Show." Although "glam" moments, such as having your wine paired with the cuisine of a great chef in a way that makes your wine taste better than even you imagined, do exist, Oldfield reminds us "that 50% of our time during the day we spend cleaning things" and much of the rest consists of paperwork and endlessly sitting in front of the computer, crunching numbers and trying to get the budget to work.
          It is clearly apparent that Oldfield, the winemaker and co-owner of Oliver, B.C.?s Tinhorn Creek Vineyards, loves her job. But, she is quick to point out that it does have its hardships. Take the 1999 vintage, for example. Oldfield had 600 tonnes of grapes hanging in the vineyard, none of them as yet ready for picking, when a severe frost hit at the end of September. Within hours, she witnessed many of the leaves in the vineyard burn and wither away. Without leaves, there is no ripening. While Oldfield believes that they still made decent wine in 1999, the trauma of the vintage and crying herself to sleep every night, caused her serious psychological consternation which, she admits, has had a lasting effect. Since then, she no longer tries to "change the weather." Instead, she approaches each vintage with an heir of excitement and humility in the realization that "85-90% of what?s in the bottle" is directly dependent upon Mother Nature. (Click here to continue article...)
A Different World An Ocean Away

by Gurvinder Bhatia 
As appears in Wine Tidings, October 2003 issue.
              
?Everything tastes the same? was the comment heard at a recent tasting put on by the Australian Wine Bureau.  Although there were a huge number of wines on hand, they were far more representative of the homogenization occurring as a result of rampant consolidation of the Australian wine industry than the unique gems being created by some of the country?s smaller producers.  Not that the wines being poured were offensive.  But, someone has to say ?stop? after tasting several consecutive $35.00 over-extracted, confected Shiraz from different producers that taste like they all came out of the same vat.

                 The problem lies not just with the Aussies.  Over-priced wines from California, Bordeaux, Burgundy and even Canada have left me searching for wines of quality, value and originality.  I?m tired of $100 bad Burgundy, $200 Super-Tuscans that sold for $75 three years ago, $200 California Cabernets that the importer is begging wine boutiques and restaurants to buy because of excess inventories, $900 2000 Bordeaux and $40 Cabernets from Chile, Australia and California that all taste the same.  It seems there is an overabundance of over-priced albeit well-made wines and identikit wines that all taste the same regardless of price.(Click here to continue article...)

The Crushing Deals

by Gurvinder Bhatia
As appears in Tidings, May/June 2004 issue
               ?Without the existence of individuality, wine has no validity,? were the words uttered by David Scholefield that had everyone?s head nodding in agreement. Scholefield, a former buyer for the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch, was moderating a pre-release tasting of several Barolos from the exceptional 2000 vintage.  Each of the wines was wonderful, distinctive and representative of both the house-style and its sub-zone within Barolo.  The free-spirited, ?absent minded professor? Scholefield is clearly passionate and knowledgeable about wine, but also practical.
               Scholefield was asked about the rampant consolidation in the industry that is resulting in the generic offerings crowding the shelves of our wine stores.  ?Remember the 80-20 rule?, was Scholefield?s response.  He explained that 80% of wine produced is over-sweetened, mass-produced, homogenized, grocery store swill.  But, he added with a wacky grin, it has its place.  Confused looks prompted him to continue to explain that if large producers with large advertising budgets were able to convince a non-wine drinker to have a glass of wine, then that was a good thing.  Once someone became a wine drinker, though, it fell upon those in the industry to expose them to the splendid, unique, funky, individualistic wines with soul that make up the other 20%.  These are the wines that give wine its purpose.(Click here to continue article...)

Profile on Nicola Fabiano

by Gurvinder Bhatia
as appears in Wine Tidings November 2001 issue
(click here for full article)

Profile on John Duval
by Gurvinder Bhatia
as appears in Wine Tidings, July/August 2003 issue
(click here for full article)
 




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